Cultivation of Bonsai

You should apply the product in a site of easy subsequent washing, for example bathtub, but never in the sink, you should use a specific sprayer for these applications and after they wash it well with soap and water. You should wear disposable gloves or rubber ones (only for this effect that always washes with soap) and a mask. You must make the applications in an airy place and do not stay on site after application, do not store the products within reach of children, animals or near food. After application should wash the gloves well and then the hand with soap and, not to eat, drink, smoke or go to the bathroom without washing before.

It depends, if they are fungicides, since properly tested in Bonsai and inserted into a logical prevention plan, one can do this because in this way we will be acting preventively, since the fungi do not easily gain resistance and, if so, we can always change them easily by others, there is no problem.

If we are talking about Insecticides or Acaricides, we should not apply prevention, combat only, because insects easily create strains resistant to active substances and, thus when we have the pest it will be resistant to the substance, most likely to other active substances of the same family (and sometimes from other families).

Anyway, today it tries to grow the Bonsai (and other Cultures) on a preventive basis supported by ideal nutrition and cultivation, so the plant is more resistant to pests and fungi. For this purpose it tries to respect the location, watering, soil type and range between perfect transplants as well as to administer to the plant quality fertilizers and nutritional supplements to facilitate cultivation.

Aggressive is not since applied respecting the times and techniques indicated, it is also not painful for the plant because, besides not having a nervous system, it is naturally prepared to be attacked by predators (which is similar to being pruned).

All kinds of plant cultivation is unnatural, so in agriculture one has to grow, water the plants and fight their pests. When we pass to pot cultivation, it becomes more intervening and we make the plant dependent on us, Bonsai is no exception. Indeed the natural order is the trees to be born and die in the forests, if we cultivate them (whether in the field or in pots) we are contradicting (or controlling) nature, but this does not mean that they suffer, unless we fail them with something.

It is usual a tree to live more in Bonsai than in nature, because in Bonsai we fight its natural enemies, we avoid weather, we do not lack nutrients or water and give a high quality soil regularly, we summarily create the perfect conditions for living.

It depends on the products, initially the agricultural products for Bonsai (or any other ornamental culture) have the same active substances as the specific products of Bonsai, but their quantities, doses and synthesis (method of obtaining and origin) can be different.

The ideal is to always use specific products for Bonsai and produced by specialized Bonsai companies, alternatively confirm the doses indicated for each species.

It is important not to standardize doses by comparing them with those used in trees in the field, even if they are of the same kind as their Bonsai. Think that the objectives in the field are different from those in Bonsai (in which the aesthetics and longevity of the tree are the most important points). One of the ways a plant has to release toxicity is through the roots, in Bonsai this toxicity easily passes from one to the other (due to the size of the vase).

In the case of agricultural fertilizers and ornamental plants often it is not removed chlorides and the origin of nutrients is chemical and in high doses, which in Bonsai tends to salinize the soil by inhibiting plant assimilation or even burning roots.

First we must divide the sick word into three causes: pests (beak attacks), diseases (caused by fungi, viruses or bacteria) and horticultural errors (excess or lack of conditions necessary to survive the plant - light, water, fertilizer, accidents with products that kill the plant, extreme weather conditions, etc...).

The major problem in the diagnosis in plants is that, plants, do not complain and, symptoms are very similar to different causes, hence the plant owner is 50% of the diagnosis, based on his description of how the plant grows we can see which errors.

Anyway the main symptoms of pests are food leaves and bugs that are seen in the new gums, leaf axills and verse and can also attack on the roots.

As for diseases, leaf deformations, coloring changes, necrosis (black patches), molds or powders, the plant has thirsty symptoms but is watered.

In crop errors, symptoms are very similar to diseases, with increased and discoloration of leaves (excess of water and/or lack of light), dry leaves type tea attached to the plant (heaven), necroses and stains (toxicity, e.g. cleaning products, air conditioners, toxic chemicals, excess fertilizer), reduction of water consumption without apparent cause.

Some sensitivity allows the initiate, even without knowing the diagnosis to realize that something strange is going on and, most importantly, not to postpone, or to wait for it to pass because most of the problems are solved since treated at the beginning.

Using a sentence of the renowned master Dan Barton "There's someone who says it's important to talk to the plants, I think it's more important to hear them!"

The first step is to review all maintenance care by correcting any errors, then you should interrupt the adubation process, increasing the frequency of "Biobonsai" to weekly, and if the problem is rooted put a Fortifying Ample.

If you suspect fungi or pests you should apply a specific agricultural product to the case (be careful that many become toxic to the Bonsai). Ideally visit us with the plant, or send, to our address dr.bonsai@luso-bonsai.com detailed photos of it to make sure we are diagnosed and recommend the product and doses to apply.

In addition to being aesthetically indicated, Bonsai means a vase tree, so the vase has a great importance, functioning for the plant as a frame for a frame, finally the vessels of Bonsai have chemical and physical characteristics specific to the cultivation of trees in reduced spaces.

You should transplant your Bonsai from two to two years (a little more in mature plants and pines). Ideally the species of exterior and double location in February/March and those of interior in April/May.

The transplant is an indispensable process in Bonsai, as it renews the soil (which at the end of 2 years is worn) and, when cutting the roots, it stimulates roots of capture and creates space for the plant to continue to grow in the vase (sometimes it may be necessary to increase the vase).

You should never fertilizer a sick plant (or recently transplanted), because it will force it to grow, making it spend all its energy.

The fertilizer would give a “message” to the plant to grow, starting the sprouting but, since it was weak would have difficulty in sustaining and accumulating new energy.

To a weak plant we must fight disease or pest (if applicable), increasing the frequency of Fortifying ("Biobonsai") for weekly, if the problem is complementary root with a "Fortifying Ampola", with "Rhiza-Bonsai" and with application of "P/K-Bonsai".

Usually, because Bonsai products are always low toxicity and with careful synthesis. In any way in other specific cultures (e.g. orchids or cactuses) it is appropriate to confirm with specialists in the area.

You should always respect the dose recommended by the product producer for use in Bonsai, applying the product with the well watered plant (to prevent it from drinking an excessive dose of product), but with the dry leaves (if wet it dilutes the concentration). The plant should dry naturally but without being exposed to wind, sun or rain.

It should also keep an application interval between two phytosanitary (e.g. an insecticide and a fungicide or 2 insecticides) of eight days and, between a phytosanitary and a nutrient (e.g. fortifying or fertilizer) of 48 hours, thus we prevent products from neutralizing or having chemical and biological reactions in the plant.

Through the pruning we model and maintain the shape of the plant, we increase its foliar density we reduce the size of the leaves and distance between them. Finally, we balance the energy of the plant (by pruning the strongest parts against its dominion over the weakest).